Coniglio all'ischitana
Ischian braised rabbit
The rabbit pits of Ischia sit among vineyards and gardens, a reminder that the island's kitchen was shaped by its hills as much as its shoreline. Raised in those deep, walled spaces, the animals supplied a dependable Sunday meal when provisions from the mainland were uncertain.
The island's villages season the rabbit in different ways, with their own choices of fat, tomatoes, and herbs. Dry white wine, garlic, fresh tomatoes, and piperna give this braise its fragrance; the local herb is closely associated with the dish.
The cooking is patient but straightforward: brown the rabbit well, then let it soften in its own concentrated sauce. Traditionally, some of that sauce goes first onto bucatini before the rabbit comes to the table. A generous piece of bread is just as persuasive.
Ingredients
For the rabbit
- 1.4 kg(3 lb)good-quality young rabbit, jointed into 8 serving pieces (see note)
- 80 ml(⅓ cup)extra-virgin olive oil
- 2garlic cloves, lightly crushed but left unpeeled
- 1 smallfresh red chile, split lengthwise, or a pinch of dried chile flakes
- 150 ml(⅔ cup)dry white wine, ideally Biancolella if available (see note)
- 500 gripe cherry or grape tomatoes, halved (see note)
- 4 small sprigsfresh piperna, or fresh thyme if piperna is unavailable (see note)
- 2 small sprigsfresh marjoram
- 4flat-leaf parsley sprigs
- 8fresh basil leaves
- fine salt
Kitchen notes
- Rabbit
- The prized Ischian animal is coniglio da fossa, raised in traditional island pits; a good young farm-raised rabbit is the practical home choice. Ask a butcher to joint it if needed. This is rabbit, not chicken: its lean, delicate meat benefits from the gentle covered braise and should be served in bone-in pieces.
- Piperna
- Piperna is the island herb closely associated with this dish; it is identified locally with wild thyme. Fresh piperna is rarely practical to source in the United States, so fresh thyme is the practical alternative here. It will not duplicate the island herb exactly; do not confuse piperna with black pepper or use a dried Italian-herb blend in its place.
- Biancolella and tomatoes
- Biancolella is Ischia's characteristic dry white wine; use a clean, dry, unoaked white wine if it is unavailable. Sweet ripe cherry or grape tomatoes give a faithful fresh-tomato texture in an American kitchen; do not replace them with a heavy canned-tomato sauce.
Method
Prepare the rabbit and herbs
- Pat the rabbit very dry and season it lightly with salt. Tie the piperna or thyme, marjoram, and parsley together with kitchen twine; keep the basil separate for the finish. A heavy lidded casserole is a practical home stand-in for the Ischian terracotta tiano.
Brown the rabbit
- Heat the olive oil in the casserole over medium-high heat. Brown the rabbit in batches without crowding, turning until each piece has a well-colored golden surface, about 8–10 minutes per batch; transfer the browned pieces to a bowl. Lower the heat to medium, add the garlic and chile to the oil, and cook only until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Build the braise
- Return the rabbit and any juices to the casserole. Pour in the wine and let it bubble briskly until its raw alcohol smell has gone and the liquid has reduced by about half, 3–5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, herb bundle, and a small pinch of salt. Turn the rabbit through the tomatoes so every piece is lightly coated.
Cook slowly
- Cover and cook at the barest simmer for 35 minutes, turning the pieces once or twice. Uncover and continue for 10–20 minutes, until the sauce is glossy and concentrated but still generous enough to spoon, and the thickest leg meat yields readily from the bone without shredding. If the pan threatens to dry before the rabbit is tender, add a small splash of hot water and cover again; the goal is a braise, not a fried rabbit.
Rest and serve
- Discard the herb bundle and, if you like, the softened garlic skins and chile. Tear in the basil, taste the sauce for salt, and let the rabbit rest in the pan for 10 minutes. Serve the pieces with plenty of their tomato-and-wine sauce.