Gnummareddi

Valle d'Itria lamb-offal rolls in caul and casing

From: Valle d'Itria, Puglia (Apulia)
Kind: Meat
Yield: Makes 12 small rolls; serves 4

Gnummareddi make the most exacting kind of economy look like a feast. Small bundles of lamb offal are tucked into lacy caul fat, then wound in their own slender casing until the grill turns the exterior crisp and the center rich. The name changes as you travel across Puglia; the pleasure of a hot, smoky roll does not.

The contents vary by town and butcher. Lamb or kid, liver, heart, lung, kidney, spleen, parsley, wild fennel, cheese and bay may all appear. Caul and casing hold the pieces of offal together, preserving their different textures inside the smoky exterior.

Ingredients

For the rolls

250 g(about 9 oz)lamb heart, trimmed and cut into 2 cm (¾-inch) pieces (see note)
250 g(about 9 oz)lamb liver, trimmed and cut into 2 cm (¾-inch) pieces
150 g(about 5 oz)lamb kidney, trimmed and cut into 2 cm (¾-inch) pieces
about 200 g(7 oz)food-grade lamb caul fat (omento), cut into 12 rectangles about 12 × 11 cm (4¾ × 4¼ inches) (see note)
10 m (about 33 ft)food-grade pre-cleaned natural lamb or sheep casing, soaked as its package directs (see note)
10 g(about 3 tbsp)flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
2 g(about 1 tsp)wild fennel seeds, lightly crushed
6 g(about 1 tsp)fine sea salt
2 g(about 1 tsp)freshly ground black pepper
15 ml(1 tbsp)extra-virgin olive oil

Kitchen notes

Lamb offal: Gnummareddi traditionally use a mixed coratella: varying combinations of lamb or kid heart, liver, lung, kidney and spleen. U.S. law does not permit livestock lung to be sold for human food, so this version uses heart, liver and kidney from a specialist butcher. Do not replace them with ground lamb; that would make a different dish.
Lamb caul fat (omento): Caul is the thin, lacy membrane around the animal's internal organs. It melts as the rolls cook, holding and basting the offal. The 200 g is a purchase allowance for an irregular sheet; cut the 12 rectangles and use only one thin layer per roll. It is neither rendered lamb fat nor a sheet of bacon; order it from a butcher who handles whole lamb.
Natural lamb or sheep casing: The outer budello is an edible intestinal casing. Buy a food-grade, pre-cleaned product and follow its soaking directions; plastic or collagen sausage casings do not give the same result. Caul and natural casing are essential to the roll; source both before starting.
Wild fennel seeds: Seek wild fennel seeds, finocchietto selvatico, from a specialty Italian market. Lightly crush them to release their herbal aroma before mixing them with the offal.

Method

Prepare the grill and wrappers

Heat a charcoal or gas grill for medium-high direct heat, about 425°F (220°C) at the grate. Keep one cooler zone available. Lay the caul fat flat on a clean board and cut it into 12 rectangles about 12 × 11 cm (4¾ × 4¼ inches), with the 11 cm side set to go around each roll. Drain the soaked casing well and cut it into 12 lengths about 80 cm (32 inches) long. Use only food-grade, pre-cleaned casing; do not attempt to prepare raw gut at home.

Season and wrap

Combine the heart, liver and kidney with the parsley, crushed fennel, salt and pepper. Divide the mixture into 12 compact logs about 8 cm (3 inches) long and 3 cm (1¼ inches) thick, putting a little of each organ in every one. Enclose each log in one caul rectangle: the 11 cm side should make one turn around the roll with a small overlap, while the 12 cm side extends about 2 cm beyond each end. Wind one 80 cm casing length around each roll in eight close, nearly touching spirals from end to end, then tuck the last 5 cm under the final turn. Thread three rolls lengthwise on each of four long flat skewers, leaving a little space between them, or use a grill basket.

Grill through

Brush the rolls lightly with olive oil and grill over the hotter zone, turning every 2–3 minutes, until the casing is crisp and browned all around, 8–10 minutes. If the caul flares, slide the skewers to the cooler zone until the flames settle. Test the center of one sacrificial roll: the heart should be fully cooked and the center should reach 160°F (71°C). Return any underdone rolls to the cooler zone briefly rather than blackening the casing.

Serve

Rest the rolls for 2 minutes, then slide them from the skewers and serve hot. Their flavor is direct and mineral, so a few bitter greens or grilled bread are enough beside them.